The High Sierras: Part 1

Well folks we are alive! Not only did we survive the High Sierras, we thrived in the mountains. It is a truly magical place; words are only able to scratch the surface of the beauty and power in this wild landscape. Each day has been a journey in itself and much has transpired over the past month. Summit of Mt Whitney, fording rivers, watching marmots frolick in the meadows, being attacked by mosquitos, hitch-hiking in pickups, reuniting with hikers we haven’t seen since the beginning of spring and testing the limits of our body and minds. Let’s begin with the first leg of this section: Kennedy Meadows-mile 702.2 to Muir Trail Ranch – mile 858.

June 22 – With 100lbs of gear & food between the two of us, we departed Kennedy Meadows for the Range of Light. Midday we came out of the forest to walk thru an old burn area now dominated by sagebrush. Fire ecology and observing the different stages of plant succession has been fascinating.While there is an abundance of wildflowers, the desert heat lingers and we are still a few days away from the glacial peaks and cool forest air. We camped at The S. FK Kern river with a handful of other hikers. Hundreds of swallows have built nests in a bridge which spans the water. At dusk they darted around with grace and speed to capture all the insect life. We appreciated the mosquito removal service and slept soundly on the banks of the lazy meandering stream.

June 23 – Frost on our rain fly; I love the cold nights. I awaken with such fresh lungs and life in my limbs. Big elevation gains today made our packs feel quite heavy, but we are in a solid rhythm. All the training of carrying heave packs thru the desert seem to have paid off. We top out near Olancha Peak today at 10,400 ft! On the descent many peaks are laid out before us, Mt. Whitney among them. Finally we can say goodbye to the desert as the forests and peaks begin to wrap us up in comfort. On a sad note we did notice smoke to the southwest and suspect another wildfire has begun. After some research we found out it was the Erskine fire near Lake Isabella, which burned over 48,000 acres. Every time I see or hear about the effects of a wildfire my respect for this force of nature grows more and more.

 

June 24 – In the morning we gather water in a meadow near Death Canyon creek. New wildflowers catch my eye such as shooting stars and a species of orchid. We climb up a steep ridge and get an expansive view of the desert east of the Sierras. Owens Lake (what is still left of it…) appears as a small blob of blue surrounded by white and red stained earth. If you haven’t seen the movie Chinatown with Jack Nicholson watch it! It an excellent film and a good introduction into the history of the California Water Wars and how the Owens Valley became so dry. Aqueducts and other human manipulations of natural waterways is fascinating.  With our current population its a necessity to have such infrastructure in place. Only time will tell how sustainable this system is and what long lasting impacts we are making on the landscape.

Down the hill we go to Diaz creek, a small riparian oasis with many golden trout and bonsai willow trees. Its places like this that give me hope that no matter what we do to the earth there will always be wilderness refuges full of life and diversity.

June 25 – Excellent rhythm this morning with frequent stretch/food breaks. We arrive at Chicken Spring Lake midday for our first swim in a lake. At over 11,000ft the water couldn’t be more refreshingly cold. The hike out was in stark contrast to our lounging at the lake. Sand and pebbles combined with the steep terrain would frustrate even the most nimble footed of hikers. Exhausted and feeling the beginnings of a hanger attack we wisely set up camp at the nearest location and spend a night in the Siberian Outpost.

June 26 – Happy Anniversary! Today we have been on the trail for 2 months and married for 9 months! However minor the milestone or achievement, we enjoy celebrating almost any event in life. Because isn’t that why we are here on this earth? To be happy? We pay homage to this moment with a great morning yoga practice and meditation. How lucky we are to be alive.

A quick descent to rock creek and we find ourselves at the first of many river crossings.  I have been dreaming of this for weeks, I will take any chance I get to soak my acheing feet in a cold mountain stream. From here we climb up to Guyot Pass and then back down to Crabtree Meadows, the western gateway to Mt. Whitney. Marmots frolic in the meadow and dozens of golden trout fill the stream. We are in paradise.

June 27 – With only day packs we make our ascent of Mt. Whitney; how freeing it is to carry only food, water and emergency supplies for the day. We leave camp just as the sun shines thru a gap in the mountains. Truly this is an unforgettable day. Each view exceeds the next, everything we see breathes perfection. A variety of flowers are present that I have never seen before; Sky Pilot, Sierra Primrose and Cassiope are my favorite plants to grace these high mountain slopes.  Wherever there is a sufficient amount of soil accumulated life will be there. We reached the summit around noon and spend an hour in awe of the  view. To the east the earth dives to Lone Pine and then quickly shoots back up again to the White Mountains. To the North, South and west mountains stretch as far as the eye can see. How alive this place makes us feel. So much wildness still present in the west. As we descend the mountain an afternoon thunderstorm rolls in. We timed our day well and find ourselves back down in flatter, more protected terrain before the first lightning strikes. The acoustics in this natural amphitheatre  are incredible. Thunder echoes off each wall and a tingling sensation travels up the spine. Another wonderful day to be alive.

June 28 – What a fun day! Three separate creek fords, mild elevation gain, more expansive views and another afternoon thunderstorm. We camp at Tyndall creek 5 miles shy of Forester Pass. After setting up our tent we took a walk along the creek. Without warning dark menacing clouds come from both the east and west and seem to converge right in this valley. The first lightning strike was 7 seconds away, so we hurried to our tent as the storm continued to come closer. A wall of electric energy is not something to be messed with. We expect a torrential downpour to follow this storm, but escape with only 5 minutes of real rain. At 3 seconds between lightning and thunder this was the closest either of us has ever been to this natural fore. That night we read aloud a chapter from John Muir’s writings titled, “Thunderstorms in the Sierra’s”. Muir’s ability to animate the natural world is unlike any other author and I highly encourage all explorers of the woods to read his work.

June 29 – We are early to rise and focused. At all of the different passes throughout the high sierra’s, timing your ascent and descent for the day are important. Too early in the day and you might encounter icy conditions. Too late in the afternoon you could likely encounter thunderstorms and wet, slushy snow. We made it safely to the top of Forester Pass and got our first taste of glissading, what a rush! Makes me wish I had my snowboard with me… This was also our first opportunity to justify using our ice axes to practice a self-arrest technique and in case things got out of hand. As we arrived at Bubbs creek I had this sudden feeling of being completely surrounded by mountains. This place must be in the HEART of the high sierra’s. Such rugged, craggy and tall mountains I have rarely seen. We camped along the creek and had our first campfire in many a long day. What a difference this can make to a place of rest, there is something about a good fire that speaks HOME to me. So much to process I am exhausted on all levels. Sleep comes easy to these tired bones.

June 30 – Today’s climb up to Glen Pass was much more difficult than yesterday, even though it was 1,000 ft lower in elevation. Some days energy and internal drive come easy, some days not so much. The descent was a bit tricky with a potential route through steep  snowy terrain. We opted for the rocky steep path and made it down safely. Next we entered the Rae Lakes Basin which could be one of the most beautiful places we have seen. Marking this place on the map as a definite destination to return to. As we descend into woods creek habitat transitions from high alpine meadows and lakes to a boulder field dominated by poplars, willows and a few other small shrubs. This only lasts for a half mile or so until the valley flattens out and giant firs dominate the overstory. An exciting day for any plant nerd, which was topped off with my first Tiger lily siting! Lillium columbianum may be my favorite wildflower of all time. We set up camp near a suspension bridge spanning woods creek. When we arrived it was rumored bears had been sited here yesterday and to be vigilant in storing all food and scented items properly. At dusk a few hours later a young woman came into camp having just encountered two bears a quarter mile back.

July 1 – Today may have been the hardest ascent on the entire trail. 7 miles, 3500ft of vertical gain and thousands of gigantic staircase steps later we reached Pinchot Pass. Every step was worth the view and a meditative energy enveloped the top. Everyone was silent and introspective. Looking inward and outward simultaneously, asking “what is the meaning of life?” Or at least thats the vibe I was feeling. The descent was difficult as swarms of mosquitos test our sanity and a mild hanger rises within. We reached the valley floor to ford the strong flowing Kings River. We both made it across with style and grace and find a campsite close by.

July 2 – A cold early morning pays off as we easily ascend Mather Pass. The descent was a bit harder, but we got to finish it off with a fun glissade. We reached Palisade Lakes for lunch time and were able to soak and swim. An ideal start to any day. Sometimes we have found ourselves taking short breaks at random locations. The importance of a good lunch spot that allows for room to rest comfortably is one of the many things we have found makes us happy and hike better. All hikers have a different daily schedule, overall objectives/motives for thru-hiking and cadence, which I find fascinating. Who knew there were so many different ways to walk with a backpack on!?

We descend down what another hiker referred to as the golden staircase. Stone stairs for who knows how long. I am happy to be traveling down this path rather than up. After we reached palisade creek the miles began to fly by. I sited a new species I had never seen before, the red birch or water birch (Betula occidentalis), along with the first Monkshood in bloom! As we reach camp hanger arises again. We only have two more days until we resupply at Muir Trail Ranch, but our lunch rations have been pretty slim and emotions were running high surrounding food. To our good fortune a group of JMT hikers camped with us and one of them on his own volition voiced the burden of carrying too much food… At this invitation we offered to take whatever he was willing to part with and profusely thanked him. I’m not sure if he chose to stick with this trail name, but to us he is definitely Father Christmas. With our stomaches full, a summer sausage in one hand and a bag of trail mix in the other we bid them good night.

July 3 – We awake with a new found energy and head up the Middle Fork Kings River to Muir Pass. Rumors have it that this Pass has the most snow in the sierra’s, the rumors were true. In 11 miles of trail we climbed almost 4000ft, passed by raging waterfalls, crossed countless streams, observed glacial moraines leftover from the last ice age and walked through the slushy afternoon snow. The last 2 miles there was so much snowmelt the trail turned into a flowing creek itself. At the southern base of Muir Pass is Helen Lake, a half frozen body of water full of potential energy. Finding such a large source at the headwaters of this drainage explains why the river is full from bank to bank. On the descent from the pass the gradient was low and the trail still covered in snow. It was slow going, sloshing through the snow, and a challenge to keep on the path. With soaking feet and grumbling stomachs we reached Evolution Lake for camp in the late evening. Looking west out over the lake at the setting sun, with Mt. Darwin at our backs, a deep feeling of serenity and calm filled the night air. As we lay down to sleep with the milky way stretching across the sky above us, I reflect upon what has happened thus far. A great sense of accomplishment floods my body and with it humility and deep respect for the infinite power and wonder Mother Earth has to offer.

July 4 – We have traversed the great monsters of the Sierra’s and are giddy with excitement to discover what food awaits us at Muir Trail Ranch. As we descend from Evolution Valley down to the South Fork Joaquin River a dramatic ecosystem transition occurs. The dry Southern California heat is back and with it a host of drier forest species. Mariposa lilies dominate the wildflower layer, manzanita and sagebrush form a scrub layer, while a few pine and juniper scattered about. The trail along the Joaquin River takes you through a small gorge and up close and personal to some impressive rapids.

We arrived at Muir Trail Ranch an hour before they close with exactly enough time to clean out our packs, sort through our resupply package, grab items from the free hiker boxes, repack our bags and then head out to find a campsite along the river. Across the river was a  natural hot spring that was calling our name. Due to high river levels it would have been a difficult ford to the other side. Instead we walked upstream 15 minutes to a huge logjam that spans the river, crossed here and then walked back downstream to discover one of the most idyllic hot springs I have ever been to. In an open meadow we find a 20′ x 20′ pool, about 4′ deep, which we got to enjoy all to ourselves. Just behind the hot pool was a large pond, full of lily pads and surrounded by shooting stars, that was perfect for cooling off in. With just enough daylight we retraced our steps and returned to the other side of the river and comfort of our tent we call home.

We did it! 13 days and 174 miles of intensive uninterrupted wilderness backpacking. Was it worth it? Completely. In retrospect would we want to carry this much weight again and have such limited rations? No way! But this is exactly what the trip has been all about. Testing ourselves and discovering what works for us as individuals and as a couple.

Happy belated Independence Day America! Hope you all are having an excellent summer. Stay tuned, many more stories coming your way soon!

 

Topo & Chia