The State of Jefferson: Coming Home

After waiting for a few days in Ashland to see if the trail would re-open, it became clear that the fire closure would remain in effect for the near future. We were able to get in contact with my old boss who lives in Mt. Shasta and decided to spend a few days with them until the smoke cleared. These were not your typical zero days. All types of projects are happening on their property from installing rain catchment systems to building chicken tunnels. Thanks to the Mattson Family for their hospitality and revitalizing energy! 

We decided to begin our final section just west of I-5 in Castle Crags State Park and head north back toward Ashland, hoping that the Gap Fire would be contained and the trail re-opened by the time we arrived. Quickly upon stepping into the forest, the traffic noise dissipated and the sense of a new wild land filled the air around us. Animal prints abound, a high diversity of trees and shrubs were present, along with gigantic ferns. The ascent to the ridgeline was brutal, gaining 3000′ in 6 miles with a full pack reminds us that there is no such thing as an easy day of backpacking.  Much of the region is covered in short manzanita shrubs with high sun exposure. Small pockets of Fir trees give us relief and the views of both Castle Crags and Mt Shasta make it all worth it.

A cold wind begins to blow over the next few days ushering in the start of fall. Leaves change color and the smell of decomposing matter is everywhere. The water sources in this area were incredible. Even though it feels as though we are walking through a dry forest, springs frequently emerge high up on the edge of the mountains. To our surprise many of the springs have the carnivorous Pitcher Plant (Darlingtonia californica) growing along its banks. If you haven’t seen these plants before, seek them out!

The trail in this area is a wild winding path going in all cardinal directions as it clings to the tops of the ridgelines. We passed over the Eddy’s, traversed the Scott Mountains and upon entering the Trinity Alps wilderness witnessed a mama bear and two cubs just 150′ off the trail munching on some manzanita berries.

Fatigue from a summer of hiking started to settle in and we became very content traveling 12-15 miles a day. This allowed us time to wake up late, meditate, enjoy long lunch breaks and swim in the myriad of lakes that the dot the landscape. This new style of slow, methodical, mindful hiking empowered us to depart the PCT multiple times to explore life off the beaten path. On one such side-trip we ventured up a very steep trail to the headwater lakes of the Scott River. In only 1.2 miles we climbed ~1000′ to find ourselves with a secluded lakeside property.

The day before we reached Etna Summit was full of energy. On our first break, thanks to the magic of cell reception, we discovered that the Forest Service had contained the Gap Fire and re-opened the PCT! Our summer of hiking was extended for another 120 miles. With more pep in our step we race through the Russian Wilderness and its exposed granite face. That night while camped at Paynes Lake we found a massive bullfrog basking in the rays of the full moon.

The next day we made it to Etna Summit and hitched a ride into town with some local guys who were headed back from a day of fishing. Etna is small town Americana at its best. Great burgers at Dotty’s Cafe, beers from Etna Brewery and cozy accommodations at Alderbrook Manor’s Hiker hut. With the resupply complete we headed out for our final week of hiking.

We entered the Marble Mountain wilderness and camped in Shelly Meadows. All night long the ringing of cowbells resonated throughout the meadow. Do bovine ever sleep? In the morning we found 10 cows just 200′ from our camp. Chia let out a powerful “MOOOOOOOOOVE!” and off they went. Cattle grazing on public lands is a highly contentious issue that I will let ya’ll develop your own opinions on. All I can say is that it is highly unsettling to come upon a water source you are depending on using for the night, to find cow patties covering the ground. FILTER YOUR WATER!

Passing through the heart of the Marble Mountains we camped at the base of Black Marble Mt. with an incredible view to the east. The sunrise here was breathtaking;  a powerful place for meditation. From here we continued north on our descent to the Klamath River. As we dropped below 3000′ our old friend Poison oak appeared, its red oily leaves reaching toward us. My favorite tree, the Pacific Madrone, also graced us with its presence.

Upon reaching the river we spotted a helicopter flying back and forth across our path, carrying salvaged logs from a recent burn area. Brave souls who work in the timber industry. After a quick stop in Seiad Valley for final provisions we headed up toward the Siskiyou Mountains, our last major climb before reaching Oregon. We made camp quickly that night while we heard thunder in the distance and the first of the fall storms rolled in.

We marched methodically up towards Devil’s Peaks, catching a glimpse of a rainbow before the clouds took over. It took over 120 days of hiking, but we finally got some real rain! The next two days were a mix of fog, drizzle, howling winds, momentary downpours and cold nights huddled in our sleeping bag. But as we awoke on the third day the storm had passed and sunny skies welcomed us at the California/Oregon Border! What a momentous occasion (even though we only hiked 1300 of the 1700 miles in California…) We love searching through the trail registries to see notes from other hikers and imagine the journeys that brought them here.

Our final day of hiking we waltzed through meadows with grand views of Mt. Shasta and talked with many day hikers about our travels this summer. As we approached Interstate 5 we slowly began to re-enter a world full of human motion and the wildness drifted away. Hot food, warm beds, a jacuzzi tub, and beer greeted us at Callahan’s Lodge. A perfect end to a perfect summer.

The next morning we awoke to celebrate our one year anniversary with Bloody Mary’s and a Hiker Breakfast (endless pancakes…)! Around noon my dad picked us up and took us back north to Portland. Now we are home. But what is home? Is it a place? Or a feeling? A sense of belonging? For the past 6 months Lesley and I have been technically homeless, yet every single night where we pitched our tent, that felt like HOME. We hope that all of you out there, friends, family and those we haven’t met yet are able to capture this feeling wherever you may roam.

Infinite gratitude, thanks and blessings to all of you who helped us make this journey possible. We couldn’t have done it without you. Cheers! We’ll see you on down the road.

Topo & Chia